If no access then drill and re tap may be your only option in which case be very carefull to keep the drill centered on the bolt. I totally understand but if you have access try center punching the broken stud and drilling it out using small drills to start and working up to tap drill size for that stud. Actualy one must be very carefull using this method, it is possible to damage the threads slightly, but generaly works very well. If you’re lucky and the one-way screw is very loose, you may be able to unscrew it slightly using a regular screwdriver. If the bigger screwdriver doesn’t work, you can try a different screwdriver if the screw you’re trying to remove is a Phillips screw. Can you describe your headless screws in more detail? While the latter has an extractor for 2 mm screws and includes more sizes overall, it lacks the convenience of having both the drill and the extractor on the same bit.
Works with most common screw sizes. They note that this is one of the best screw extractor sets on the market, and the multiple sizes allow for this kit to tackle most screw extraction tasks. The best screw extractor (or bolt extractor) might be different for everyone depending on what needs to be done. Then I cleaned it as best as I could and ran a tap thru it. If this fails, then I would consider resorting to drilling out the offending piece. Does the piece have to be rethreaded? As the nut is still attached to the bolt, is the piece definitely screwed in with the nut acting as a lock nut? The bolt sheared at the head end of the bolt, and flush with the CI manifold branch flange. Comen on the dounstream side of a exaust manifold. The rest of the bolt and nut are still attached to the other side of the CI flange. The bolt threads and a nut are on the other side on the flange.
If it has a nut it usually won’t have threads. Sometimes the penetrant works, sometimes the “weld a nut on” works. I always use plusgas as a penetrating fluid it works the majority of the time but exhaust and head bolts and the like are prone to snapping if that happens now , if possible I weld a new nut on the broken bolt , high temp of weld usually does the trick . Glenn In my expierance heating exhaust hardware sometimes works if it does not thebolt become extremely hard and differcult to drill afterward I would heat as alast resort if you have room centre punch and drill to the largest size stud extractor thats possible, use the straight fluted stud extractor such thatr are used on pipe as the spiral ones will expand the soft steel into the threads, some times are called brass fitting extrators. The straight through goes through the muffler and out the back of the car. AnthonyHow do I know where each parker shotgun trigger plate screw goes? It goes in about half way down the threads of the extractor but it doesn’t “bite” on the metal.
An internet search suggested all manner of petroleum penetrates, water, and heat followed by an application of wax to wick into the threads. Before I started, I thought I would ask y’all what you suggested. It is in the flange tight enough that I thought there were threads involved. One thing I have not tried yet is to blow it out with oxy acet cutting torch, it will cut and remove the remaining steel but not touch the cast iron threads. As he points out, steel cuts well with a torch, cast iron doesn’t cut well. If you think about it, You can cut steel but you can’t cut cast. I am getting my options on the table now so we can fix the thing when the car and Whitesmith come in from college for Easter break. Deer hunting is an interesting thing that reminds you of those golden old ages of 19th centuries, where a handsome hunk well equipped with all hunting material rides on horse searching for his target animal either for the purpose of displaying his masculine powers or for enticing and wooing his lady love. Heating a bolt with an acetylene torch can treat corrosion, but make sure the material can withstand the heat.